Tillya-Kari Madrasah: The 17th-Century Golden Ornament of Registan Square

 Tillya-Kari Madrasah: The 17th-Century Golden Ornament of Registan Square

The Tillya-Kari Madrasah on Registan Square, built between 1646 and 1660.

Tillya-Kari Madrasah (Tillakori madrasasi in Uzbek, meaning «Gold-Covered Madrasah») is a magnificent 17th-century Islamic cultural, spiritual, and educational monument located on the iconic Registan Square in Samarkand. It is the newest addition to the architectural ensemble of the square, complementing Ulugh Beg Madrasah and Sherdor Madrasah to form a harmonious and visually stunning trio. In 2001, Tillya-Kari Madrasah, along with other historical landmarks of Samarkand, was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

The History of Tillya-Kari Madrasah

Tillya-Kari Madrasah, an architectural gem of Registan Square in Samarkand, boasts a rich and complex history that spans centuries. Its construction began in 1646 under the orders of Yalangtush Bahadur, the ruler of Samarkand and a prominent figure of the Uzbek Alchin tribe. The site chosen for this monumental structure was previously occupied by the decayed caravanserai Mirzoi, which had been built in the 15th century. Foundations and walls from the original caravanserai were partially incorporated into the new building.

Construction and Dual Purpose

At the time of its conception, the prominent congregational mosques of Samarkand, such as Bibi-Khanym and Alike Kukeltash, were in ruins. To address this, Yalangtush Bahadur envisioned Tillya-Kari as both a higher spiritual school (madrasah) and a Juma mosque for Friday prayers. This innovative dual-purpose design reflected the needs of a city steeped in Islamic tradition while elevating its architectural grandeur.

Construction and decorative work on the madrasah took 14 years to complete, concluding in 1660, several years after Yalangtush Bahadur’s death. As a result of his passing, some elements of the madrasah were completed with less precision, and the mosque’s external dome was left unfinished. Despite this, Tillya-Kari provided the finishing touch to the architectural ensemble of Registan Square, giving it the cohesive and harmonious appearance it is celebrated for today.

Earthquakes and Restoration

The madrasah faced significant challenges in the 19th century, notably a devastating earthquake in 1817–1818. The collapse of the upper section of the entrance portal, including its tympanum, caused extensive damage. Emir Haydar ordered the portal to be reconstructed; however, the restored section lacked the intricate tilework that originally adorned it.

By the early 20th century, much of the madrasah’s decorative facade had deteriorated. Restoration efforts began in the 1920s, focusing on preserving the remaining fragments of its once-spectacular decoration. In the 1930s, the restoration expanded to include the exterior facades. Further significant work was undertaken between 1950 and 1958, including the restoration of courtyard facades and the drum of the mosque’s dome.

"Tillya-Kari Madrasah Between 1905 and 1915.
Photo by S. M. Prokudin-Gorsky."
“Tillya-Kari Madrasah Between 1905 and 1915. Photo by S. M. Prokudin-Gorsky.”

Modern Restoration Efforts

The 1970s marked another wave of restoration projects. The decoration of the main portal’s tympanum was reconstructed, and the mosque’s outer dome was finally completed. By 1979, the interior decorations of the mosque, particularly its intricate gilded frescoes, were fully restored to their former glory.

Architecture of Tillya-Kari Madrasah

Tillya-Kari Madrasah, located in the northern part of Registan Square, serves as the final piece in the harmonious architectural ensemble that faces south. The structure is a square layout, covering an area of 75 by 75 meters. The architect, likely from the Bukhara architectural school, opted for a unique approach rather than mimicking the proportions of the other two madrasahs on the square. By elongating the wings of the main facade, the architect created a sense of spatial enclosure for the square. This adjustment made the madrasah appear less massive and more of a backdrop, subtly complementing the grander scale of the neighboring Ulugh Beg and Sherdor Madrasahs.

Facade and Layout

The main facade of Tillya-Kari Madrasah is an excellent example of the Bukhara architectural style. It features a central portal flanked by two-tiered wings with arched niches housing 16 hujras (student cells), eight on each side across two levels. The symmetry is further emphasized by the corner guldasta towers, which could also function as minarets. The central portal is deeply recessed into a five-sided niche and offers three passageways into the building.

The expansive four-iwan courtyard is surrounded by hujras, arranged in two tiers along the main facade and a single tier along the other sides. On the western side of the courtyard stands the Tillya-Kari mosque, which is a portal-dome structure. To maintain symmetry, additional courtyard portals were built along its central axes.

The mosque itself consists of three parts: the central area, which is cross-shaped in plan and covered with a double dome, houses a marble-clad mihrab and an eleven-stepped marble minbar. Flanking the central prayer hall are open galleries supported by columns, facing the courtyard.

Decorative Elements

The exterior and courtyard facades of the madrasah are adorned with brickwork, mosaic tile patterns, and majolica, displaying intricate geometric, floral, and epigraphic designs. The mosque’s interior, however, is the highlight of the structure. The walls and dome are lavishly decorated with frescoes executed in the kundal technique, characterized by intricate patterns and generous use of gold leaf, which lends the madrasah its name, «Golden Madrasah.»

The mihrab and minbar in the mosque are masterpieces of marble craftsmanship, while the dome’s gilded surface reflects light to create a celestial ambiance, inspiring awe and reverence among worshippers. The meticulous use of color and symmetry in the decorative motifs exemplifies the pinnacle of Central Asian Islamic art.

Mihrab of the Mosque.
Mihrab of the Mosque.

A Legacy Preserved

Today, Tillya-Kari Madrasah stands as a testament to the artistic and cultural achievements of Samarkand. Its golden interiors, intricate tile work, and harmonious design continue to captivate visitors from around the world. Recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it remains a symbol of Samarkand’s enduring legacy as a crossroads of culture, knowledge, and spirituality.

Tillya-Kari Madrasah stands as a testament to the architectural ingenuity of its time, blending functionality with aesthetic brilliance. It complements the grandeur of Registan Square, serving as both a cultural and spiritual beacon in the heart of Samarkand.

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